Strata is a comfort food restaurant in upscale guise -- which is no kind of sleight. Dishes sound sophisticated, like the pancetta-wrapped Caesar salad (which looks like a maki roll) and they are. But with the nod to nostalgia comes a professional approach, best exemplified by the "pepper'd devil'd eggs" -- that hors d'oeuvre straight out of a Knights of Columbus hall. Three kinds of peppers -- chipotle, smoked paprika, and red bell pepper -- give each of the yolk-filled halves a different personality. Clinching the comfort food theme is the "tray of the day," a start-to-finish meal served in a ceramic version of a TV dinner tray. Classics like roast turkey breast, meatloaf and chicken parmesan get amped-up with superior ingredients and unusual accompaniments like melted leeks or summer berry sauce. And there's no need to peel the foil back from the tater tots or peach cobbler. The kitchen gets serious with Berkshire pork loin and lychee ambrosia salad, made with citrus gelatin instead of Jell-O. And of course, no comfort food menu would be complete without macaroni and cheese, like mom never made -- with fontina cheese, minced porcinis, and black truffles.
Address:
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915 Broadway
Corner of 21 Streets.
New York , NY 10010
Phone: (212) 505-7400